Ithimba eliwine imiklomelo lezintatheli, abaklami nabathwebuli bevidiyo baxoxa izindaba zomkhiqizo ngelensi eyingqayizivele ye-Fast Company.
Ngesikhathi ngibheka ezokuphepha esikhumulweni sezindiza i-LaGuardia muva nje, intokazi edeskini lokungena yakhipha isikhwama sokugoqa ibhamuza esinoziphu esigcwele izinto zangasese yasibeka ethreyini.Nakuba ayengekho ama-logo noma imibhalo esikhwameni, ngavele ngazi ukuthi uyithole enkampanini yezimonyo i-Glossier.Kusukela yethulwa ngo-2014, i-Glossier ipakishe yonke imikhiqizo ethengwe ku-inthanethi noma esitolo kulezi zikhwama ezihlukile.Uma uke wathenga ngalo mkhiqizo, noma wavele waphequlula ngokuphakelayo kwe-Instagram ka-Glossier, uzosibona lesi sikhwama ngokushesha njengoba singena ngesiginesha sika-Glossier esipinki esinoziphu omhlophe nababomvu.
U-Glossier uyakuqonda ukuthi kubaluleke kangakanani lokhu kufakwa empumelelweni yenkampani, eqoqe amaRandi ayizigidi ezingu-200 emalini yebhizinisi ngenani lesilinganiso esingu-$1.3 billion.I-Glossier yaziwa ngezimonyo zayo nemikhiqizo ye-skincare futhi inehlelo lokulandela, kodwa ukupakishwa okujabulisayo kwebhrendi, izitika zamahhala, nemibala ephinki ephelezela cishe yonke into ekhiqizwa umkhiqizo yenza okuhlangenwe nakho kwe-Glossier kube ucezu olushodayo.Ngo-2018, lawa maphakheji atholwe amakhasimende amasha ayisigidi, enza imali eyizigidi eziyi-100 zamaRandi.Yingakho abameli benkampani bedonsa kanzima ukufaka uphawu lwesikhwama sesikhwama sikaziphu esipinki.Kodwa-ke, i-Glossier ibonakala inempi ekhuphukayo yokufaka uphawu lokuthengisa emaphaketheni ayo.
Nakuba i-United States Patent and Trademark Office (USPTO) inomlando omude wokubhalisa amalogo namagama emikhiqizo ahlukile, ukubeka uphawu lokuhweba ezinye izici zomkhiqizo, njengokupakisha, kuwumqondo omusha uma kuqhathaniswa.I-USPTO ibhalise izici eziningi zomkhiqizo we-Glossier, kusukela kulogo ethi “G” kuya kumagama emikhiqizo ehlukahlukene njenge-Balm Dotcom edumile noma i-Boy Brow.Kodwa lapho i-USPTO ithola isicelo sophawu lwezikhwama, inhlangano yenqaba ukusigunyaza.
U-Julie Zerbo, ummeli obhala ngomthetho wemfashini webhulogi yakhe ethi The Fashion Law, ukulandele eduze ukubhaliswa kophawu lwentengiso lwe-Glossier.Umgomo omkhulu ka-Glossier uwukuvimbela amanye amabhrendi ekwenzeni ukugoqa kwebhamuza okufanayo kwemikhiqizo yawo, okungase kwenze buthaka isithombe somkhiqizo we-Glossier futhi kwenze isikhwama nakho konke okungaphakathi kungafiseleki kakhulu kubathengi.Eqinisweni, u-Glossier uphawula ukuthi umenzi wezicathulo nezikhwama uJimmy Choo ukhiphe isikhwama semali esiphinki ngo-2016 esinokwakheka okulingisa izikhwama ezipinki zeGlossier.Uphawu lokuhweba luzokwenza kube nzima kwamanye amabhrendi ukukopisha isikhwama ngale ndlela.
Encazelweni ewusizo, uZebo ubeka izizathu eziningi zokuthi kungani i-USPTO yenqabe isicelo.Ngakolunye uhlangothi, umthetho wophawu lokuhweba uncike emandleni omthengi okuhlobanisa uphawu lokuhweba nomthombo owodwa noma umkhiqizo.Isibonelo, u-Hermès unophawu lokuthengisa ku-silhouette yesikhwama sika-Birkin futhi u-Christian Louboutin unophawu lwentengiso ematheni abomvu esicathulweni ngoba kuzo zombili izimo, zombili izinkampani zingasho ngokugculisayo ukuthi abathengi bahlonza le mikhiqizo ngokuthi: Ibhrendi eyodwa.
I-USPTO ithi kunzima ukwenza ingxabano efanayo yezikhwama ze-Glossier ngoba ukugoqa kwebhamuza kuvame ukupakishwa nokuthunyelwa.Kodwa zikhona nezinye izinkinga.Umthetho wophawu uklanyelwe ukuvikela idizayini yobuhle, hhayi izici zokusebenza zomkhiqizo.Lokhu kungenxa yokuthi uphawu lokuhweba aluhloselwe ukunikeza umkhiqizo ngezinzuzo ezithile zosizo.I-USPTO ichaza izikhwama “njengeziklanywe ngokusebenzayo” ngoba ukugoqa kwebhamuza kuvikela okuqukethwe.“Lokhu kuyinkinga ngoba ukusebenza kahle kuyisithiyo sokubhalisa,” kusho uZebo.
I-Glossier ayigodli.UGlossier ufake iphepha elisha elinamakhasi angama-252 ngesonto eledlule.Kuyo, umkhiqizo ucacisa ukuthi i-Glossier ayifuni ukufaka uphawu lokuthengisa isikhwama ngokwaso, kodwa umthunzi othile wombala ophinki osetshenziswa ohlotsheni oluthile nokucushwa kokupakisha.(Kufana noChristian Louboutin echaza ukuthi uphawu lokuhweba kufanele lube umthunzi othile obomvu osetshenziswa ematheni ezicathulo zomkhiqizo, hhayi izicathulo ngokwazo.)
Inhloso yale mibhalo emisha ukufakazela ukuthi ezingqondweni zabathengi, izikhwama zihlobene eduze nomkhiqizo.Kunzima ukufakazela.Lapho ngibona isikhwama esithambile se-Glossier eqoqweni le-TSA, ngasibona ngokushesha, kodwa umkhiqizo wakufakazela kanjani ukuthi iningi labathengi lizoba nokusabela okufanayo nokwami?Esitatimendeni sakhe, uGlossier wethule amaphephabhuku namaphephandaba akhuluma ngokusetshenziswa kwezikhwama zetiye ezibomvana, kanye nokuthunyelwe kwamakhasimende ezinkundleni zokuxhumana mayelana nezikhwama zetiye ezibomvana.Kodwa akucaci ukuthi i-USPTO izongena yini kulezi zimpikiswano.
Kodwa-ke, isifiso sika-Glossier sokufaka uphawu lokupakishwa kwayo sisho lukhulu ngokuthi luyini uhlobo lwesimanje.Sekungamashumi eminyaka, ama-logo abe namandla amakhulu.Lokhu kungenxa yokuthi ukukhangisa kwebhodi lokukhangisa nomagazini kulungele ukubonisa amalogo angashintshi.Ngama-90s, lapho ama-logo esemfashini, ukugqoka isikibha esinophawu lweGucci noma uLouis Vuitton kwakupholile.Kodwa emashumini eminyaka amuva nje, lowo mkhuba uye washabalala njengoba amabhrendi ekhethe ukubukeka okuhlanzekile, okuncane, okungenawo amalogo nokugqama okugqamile.
Lokhu ngokwengxenye kungenxa yokunikezwa kwesizukulwane esisha sokuqalisa okuqondile kumthengi okufana no-Everlane, M.Gemi kanye noCuyana, abaye bathatha ngamabomu indlela ecashile ekukhiqizeni kwabo, ikakhulukazi ukuze bazihlukanise kwamanye amabhrendi emfashini.Imikhiqizo yokunethezeka yesikhathi esidlule.Imikhiqizo yabo ngokuvamile ayinawo ama-logo, ngokuhambisana nefilosofi yabo yokuthengisa imikhiqizo yekhwalithi ephezulu, ehlala isikhathi eside ngentengo enkulu kunokuba ikhuthaze ukusetshenziswa okusobala.
Ukukhishwa kwamalogo kuphinde kuhambisane nokudlondlobala kwe-e-commerce, okusho ukuthi amabhrendi adinga ubuhlakani endleleni apakisha futhi ayithumele ngayo imikhiqizo yawo kubathengi.Imikhiqizo ivamise ukutshala imali eningi ekudaleni “i-unboxing” eyingqayizivele yamakhasimende ngokupakisha imikhiqizo yawo ephepheni eliyingqayizivele namaphakheji abonisa ukuthi umkhiqizo umeleni.Amakhasimende amaningi abe esebelana ngolwazi lwawo ku-Instagram noma ku-YouTube, okusho ukuthi abantu abaningi bazoyibona.U-Everlane, isibonelo, ukhetha ukupakisha okungasindi, okuncane, okungagaywa kabusha ngokuhambisana nefilosofi yayo yokusimama.I-Glossier, ngakolunye uhlangothi, iza nephakeji elijabulisayo nelentombazane elinezitikha nesikhwama esipinki.Kulo lonke izwe elisha, imikhiqizo yangaphandle, okuhlanganisa nokupakishwa, kungazelelwe kwafana nezinkampani ezizenzile.
Inkinga, vele, ukuthi, njengoba icala le-Glossier libonisa, kunzima ngemikhiqizo ukuzithethelela njengabakufanelekela lezi zindlela ezicashile zokufaka uphawu.Ekugcineni, umthetho unemikhawulo yawo uma kuziwa ekuvikeleni uhlobo lwenkampani.Mhlawumbe isifundo ukuthi uma uhlobo luzophumelela emhlabeni wanamuhla wokudayisa, kufanele lube nobuciko kuzo zonke izindawo zokusebenzisana namakhasimende, kusukela ekupakishweni kuya kusevisi yasesitolo.
UDkt. Elizabeth Segran ungumbhali Omkhulu e-Fast Company.Uhlala eCambridge Massachusetts.
Isikhathi sokuthumela: Aug-07-2023
