Itsinda ryatsindiye ibihembo byabanyamakuru, abashushanya naba videwo bavuga inkuru zamamaza binyuze mumurongo wihariye wa Company.
Ubwo nanyuze mu mutekano ku Kibuga cy'indege cya LaGuardia, umudamu uri ku biro by'isuzuma yakuyemo igikapu cyijimye cyijimye cyuzuye igikapu cyuzuye ubwiherero maze agishyira ku murongo.Nubwo nta kirangantego cyangwa abanditsi bari ku mufuka, nahise menya ko yabikuye mu ruganda rwo kwisiga Glossier.Kuva yatangizwa mu 2014, Glossier yapakiye ibicuruzwa byose byaguzwe kumurongo cyangwa mububiko muriyi mifuka idasanzwe.Niba warigeze guhaha hamwe niki kirango, cyangwa ukareba gusa ibiryo bya Glossier ya Instagram, uzahita umenya igikapu kuko kiza muri Glossier umukono wijimye hamwe na zipper zera kandi zitukura.
Glossier yumva akamaro ko gupakira ari ngombwa kugirango isosiyete igende neza, imaze gukusanya miliyoni 200 z'amadolari y'ishoramari mu bikorwa byo kugereranya miliyari 1.3.Glossier izwiho kwisiga no gutunganya uruhu kandi ifite umuco wo gukurikira, ariko ibicuruzwa bishimishije bipfunyika, udukaratasi ku buntu, hamwe n’ibara ryijimye biherekejwe hafi nibintu byose ikirango gikora bituma Glossier yibonera ikintu kigomba kubura.Muri 2018, iyi paki yaguzwe nabakiriya bashya miliyoni imwe, yinjiza miliyoni 100 zamadorali.Niyo mpamvu abunganizi b'ikigo barwanira kuranga igikapu cyijimye.Ariko, Glossier isa nkaho ifite urugamba rutangaje rwo kuranga ibicuruzwa byayo.
Mugihe ibiro by’Amerika bishinzwe ubucuruzi n’ubucuruzi (USPTO) bifite amateka maremare yo kwandikisha ibirango n’amazina y’ibicuruzwa byihariye, kuranga ibimenyetso ku bindi birango, nko gupakira, ni igitekerezo gishya.USPTO yanditse ibintu byinshi biranga Glossier, kuva ku kirango cya "G" kugeza ku mazina y'ibicuruzwa nka Balm Dotcom izwi cyane cyangwa Boy Brow.Ariko igihe USPTO yakiriye icyifuzo cyo kuranga imifuka, umuryango wanze kubyemera.
Julie Zerbo, umunyamategeko wandika ku mategeko agenga imyambarire kuri blog ye The Fashion Law, akurikiranira hafi iyandikwa ry'ikirango cya Glossier.Intego nyamukuru ya Glossier ni ukubuza ibindi bicuruzwa gukora ibicuruzwa bisa nkibicuruzwa byabo, bishobora guca intege ikirango cya Glossier kandi bigatuma igikapu nibintu byose bitifuzwa kubaguzi.Mubyukuri, Glossier avuga ko Jimmy Choo ukora inkweto n’imifuka yasohoye ikotomoni yijimye mu 2016 hamwe n’imiterere yigana imifuka yijimye ya Glossier.Ikirangantego kizagora ibindi birango kwigana igikapu muri ubu buryo.
Mubisobanuro byingirakamaro, Zebo atanga impamvu nyinshi zatumye USPTO yanga gusaba.Ku ruhande rumwe, amategeko yerekana ikirango biterwa nubushobozi bwabaguzi bwo guhuza ikirango nisoko imwe cyangwa ikirango.Kurugero, Hermès afite ikirango kuri silhouette yumufuka wa Birkin naho Christian Louboutin afite ikirango kumurongo wumutuku winkweto kuko muribwo buryo bwombi, ibigo byombi birashobora kuvuga neza ko abaguzi bamenya ibicuruzwa byabo: Ikimenyetso kimwe.
USPTO ivuga ko bigoye gutanga igitekerezo kimwe ku mifuka ya Glossier kuko gupfunyika ibisebe bikunze kugaragara mu gupakira no kohereza.Ariko hariho ibindi bibazo.Amategeko agenga ikirango yagenewe kurinda igishushanyo mbonera, ntabwo kiranga imikorere yibicuruzwa.Ni ukubera ko ikirangantego kitagenewe gutanga ikirango ninyungu zihariye.USPTO isobanura imifuka "yateguwe neza" kuko gupfunyika ibibyimba birinda ibirimo.Zebo yagize ati: "Iki ni ikibazo kuko imikorere rwose ni inzitizi yo kwiyandikisha."
Glossier ntisubiza inyuma.Glossier yatanze impapuro nshya 252 mucyumweru gishize.Muri bwo, ikirango cyerekana ko Glossier idashaka kuranga igikapu ubwacyo, ahubwo igicucu cyihariye cyijimye gikoreshwa muburyo bwihariye no muburyo bwo gupakira.(Ninkaho Christian Louboutin asobanura ko ikirangantego kigomba kuba igicucu runaka cyumutuku ushyizwe mubirenge byinkweto, ntabwo inkweto ubwazo.)
Intego yizi nyandiko nshya ni ukugaragaza ko mubitekerezo byabaguzi, imifuka ifitanye isano rya hafi nikirangantego.Biragoye kubyemeza.Mbonye umufuka woroshye wa Glossier mu cyegeranyo cya TSA, nahise mbimenya, ariko ni gute ikirango cyagaragaje ko abaguzi benshi bari kugira reaction nkanjye?Mu itangazo ryayo, Glossier yerekanye ibinyamakuru n'ibinyamakuru bivuga ku ikoreshwa ry'icyayi cy'iroza, ndetse n'imbuga nkoranyambaga z'abakiriya zivuga ku byayi byijimye.Ariko ntibisobanutse niba USPTO izagura muriyi mpaka.
Nyamara, icyifuzo cya Glossier cyo kwerekana ibicuruzwa byacyo kivuga byinshi kubyerekeye ikirango kigezweho.Kumyaka mirongo, ibirango bifite imbaraga zidasanzwe.Ibi ni bimwe kuberako ibyapa byamamaza hamwe nibinyamakuru byamamaza nibyiza kwerekana ibirango bihamye.Mu myaka ya za 90, igihe ibirango byari bimenyerewe, kwambara T-shirt ifite ikirango cya Gucci cyangwa Louis Vuitton byari byiza.Ariko mu myaka ya vuba aha, iyo myumvire yagiye igabanuka uko ibirango byahisemo isura nziza, ntoya, idafite ibirango n'ibirango bigaragara.
Ibi biterwa ahanini nigitambo cyibisekuru bishya byabashoramari batangira-baguzi nka Everlane, M.Gemi na Cuyana, bafashe nkana uburyo bwihishe kubirango byabo, ahanini kugirango bitandukane nibindi bicuruzwa byerekana imideli.Ibiranga ibintu byiza byahise.Ibicuruzwa byabo akenshi nta kirangantego na kimwe gifite, bijyanye na filozofiya yabo yo kugurisha ibicuruzwa byiza, biramba ku giciro kinini aho gushishikariza ibicuruzwa bigaragara.
Gucukura ibirango nabyo bihurirana no kuzamuka kwa e-ubucuruzi, bivuze ko ibicuruzwa bigomba guhanga muburyo bapakira no kohereza ibicuruzwa kubaguzi.Ibicuruzwa bikunze gushora imari mugukora "unboxing" idasanzwe kubakiriya bapakira ibicuruzwa byabo mumpapuro zidasanzwe no gupakira byerekana icyo ikirango gihagaze.Abakiriya benshi noneho basangira ubunararibonye kuri Instagram cyangwa YouTube, bivuze ko abantu benshi bazabibona.Everlane, kurugero, ihitamo uburemere bworoshye, minimalist, bushobora gukoreshwa bujyanye na filozofiya irambye.Ku rundi ruhande, Glossier, iza mu gikoresho gishimishije kandi gishimishije hamwe na stikeri hamwe n umufuka wijimye.Muri iyi si nshya yose, ibicuruzwa bya peripheri, harimo no gupakira, byahise bihinduka kimwe namasosiyete yabikoze.
Ikibazo, birumvikana ko, nkuko urubanza rwa Glossier rubigaragaza, biragoye ko ibirango byerekana ko bikwiriye ubwo buryo bworoshye bwo kwamamaza.Ubwanyuma, amategeko afite aho agarukira mugihe cyo kurinda ikirango cyisosiyete.Ahari isomo nuko niba ikirango kigomba gutera imbere mubucuruzi bwumunsi, bigomba guhanga mugihe cyose cyimikoranire yabakiriya, kuva mubipfunyika kugeza muri serivise.
Dr. Elizabeth Segran numwanditsi mukuru muri sosiyete yihuta.Aba muri Cambridge Massachusetts.
Igihe cyo kohereza: Kanama-07-2023
