Gulu lomwe lapambana mphoto la atolankhani, okonza mapulani ndi ojambula mavidiyo amauza nkhani zamtundu uliwonse kudzera mu lens yapadera ya Fast Company.
Pamene ndinali kudutsa pachitetezo pa LaGuardia Airport posachedwapa, mayi wa pa desiki lolowera anatulutsa chikwama cha pinki chokhala ndi zipi chodzaza ndi zimbudzi ndikuchiyika pa tray.Ngakhale kuti m'chikwama munalibe zizindikiro kapena zolemba, ndinadziwa mwamsanga kuti anazipeza kuchokera ku kampani ya zodzoladzola ya Glossier.Chiyambireni kukhazikitsidwa kwake mu 2014, Glossier yayika chilichonse chomwe chagulidwa pa intaneti kapena m'matumba apaderawa.Ngati mudagulapo ndi mtundu uwu, kapena kungoyang'ana mwachisawawa za Glossier's Instagram feed, muzindikira chikwamachi nthawi yomweyo chimabwera mu signature ya pinki ya Glossier yokhala ndi zipi zoyera ndi zofiira.
Glossier amamvetsetsa kufunikira kwa phukusili pakuchita bwino kwa kampaniyo, yomwe yakweza $200 miliyoni pamtengo wamtengo wapatali wa $ 1.3 biliyoni.Glossier amadziwika chifukwa cha zodzoladzola zake komanso zinthu zosamalira khungu ndipo ali ndi gulu lotsatira, koma zopaka zosangalatsa za mtunduwo, zomata zaulere, ndi mitundu yapinki yomwe imatsagana ndi chilichonse chomwe mtunduwo umatulutsa kumapangitsa kuti Glossier ikhale yosowa.Mu 2018, mapaketiwa adapezedwa ndi makasitomala atsopano miliyoni imodzi, ndikupanga ndalama zokwana $ 100 miliyoni.Ichi ndichifukwa chake maloya a kampaniyo akuvutika kuti atchule chikwama cha ziplock cha pinki.Komabe, Glossier akuwoneka kuti ali ndi nkhondo yokwera kuti alembe chizindikiro chake.
Ngakhale kuti United States Patent and Trademark Office (USPTO) ili ndi mbiri yakale yolembetsa ma logo ndi mayina apadera azinthu, kuyika chizindikiro pazinthu zina zamtundu, monga kulongedza, ndi lingaliro latsopano.USPTO yalembetsa zinthu zambiri za mtundu wa Glossier, kuchokera pa logo ya "G" kupita ku mayina osiyanasiyana azinthu monga Balm Dotcom kapena Boy Brow.Koma USPTO italandira chikalata chofunsira matumbawo, bungweli linakana kuvomereza.
Julie Zerbo, loya yemwe amalemba za malamulo amafashoni pabulogu yake ya The Fashion Law, akutsatira mwatcheru kulembetsa chizindikiro cha Glossier.Cholinga chachikulu cha Glossier ndikuletsa ma brand ena kupanga zokutira zofananira za zinthu zawo, zomwe zitha kufooketsa chithunzi cha mtundu wa Glossier ndikupangitsa chikwama ndi chilichonse chomwe chili mkati mwake kukhala chosafunika kwa ogula.M'malo mwake, Glossier akuti wopanga nsapato ndi zikwama Jimmy Choo adatulutsa chikwama cha pinki mu 2016 chokhala ndi mawonekedwe omwe amatsanzira matumba a pinki a Glossier.Chizindikirocho chipangitsa kuti zikhale zovuta kwa ma brand ena kukopera thumba motere.
Pofotokoza zothandiza, Zebo akufotokoza zifukwa zambiri zomwe USPTO inakana kugwiritsa ntchito pulogalamuyi.Kumbali imodzi, malamulo amtundu amatengera kuthekera kwa wogula kugwirizanitsa chizindikiro ndi gwero limodzi kapena mtundu umodzi.Mwachitsanzo, Hermès ali ndi chizindikiro pa silhouette ya thumba la Birkin ndipo Christian Louboutin ali ndi chizindikiro pa nsapato zofiira chifukwa muzochitika zonsezi, makampani onsewa akhoza kunena motsimikiza kuti ogula amazindikira zinthuzi ndi: Mtundu umodzi.
USPTO imati ndizovuta kupanga mkangano womwewo wa matumba a Glossier chifukwa kukulunga kwa buluu kumakhala kofala pakuyika ndi kutumiza.Koma palinso mavuto ena.Lamulo lachizindikiro lapangidwa kuti liteteze kukongola, osati mawonekedwe a chinthu.Izi ndichifukwa choti chizindikiro sichimaperekedwa kuti chipatse mtundu wazinthu zothandiza.USPTO imatanthauzira matumba ngati "opangidwa mwaluso" chifukwa kukulunga kwa thovu kumateteza zomwe zilimo."Ili ndi vuto chifukwa magwiridwe antchito amalepheretsa kulembetsa," adatero Zebo.
Glossier sabwerera m'mbuyo.Glossier adalemba pepala latsopano la masamba 252 sabata yatha.M'menemo, chizindikirocho chimanena kuti Glossier sakufuna kuyika chizindikiro cha thumba palokha, koma mthunzi wa pinki womwe umagwiritsidwa ntchito pamtundu wina ndi makonzedwe a ma CD.(Zili ngati Christian Louboutin akufotokoza kuti chizindikirocho chiyenera kukhala mthunzi wina wofiyira wogwiritsidwa ntchito pazitsulo za nsapato za mtunduwo, osati nsapato zokha.)
Cholinga cha zolemba zatsopanozi ndikutsimikizira kuti m'maganizo a ogula, matumba amagwirizana kwambiri ndi chizindikirocho.Ndizovuta kutsimikizira.Nditaona chikwama chofewa cha Glossier m'gulu la TSA, ndidazindikira nthawi yomweyo, koma mtunduwo unatsimikizira bwanji kuti ogula ambiri angachite chimodzimodzi ndi ine?M'mawu ake, Glossier adapereka zolembedwa m'magazini ndi nyuzipepala zonena za kugwiritsa ntchito zikwama za tiyi zapinki, komanso zolemba zamakasitomala zokhuza matumba a tiyi apinki.Koma sizikudziwika ngati USPTO idzagula mikangano iyi.
Komabe, chikhumbo cha Glossier choyika chizindikiro chake chimanena zambiri za mtundu wamakono.Kwa zaka zambiri, ma logos akhala akugwira ntchito kwambiri.Izi zili choncho chifukwa zikwangwani zachikhalidwe komanso kutsatsa kwamagazini ndizoyenera kuwonetsa ma logo osasintha.M'zaka za m'ma 90, pamene zizindikiro zinali zodziwika bwino, kuvala T-shirt ndi logo ya Gucci kapena Louis Vuitton kunali kozizira.Koma m'zaka zaposachedwa, chikhalidwechi chazimiririka pomwe opanga asankha mawonekedwe oyera, ocheperako, opanda logo komanso chizindikiro chowonekera.
Izi ndi zina chifukwa cha zopereka za mbadwo watsopano wa oyambitsa mwachindunji kwa ogula monga Everlane, M.Gemi ndi Cuyana, omwe mwadala adatenga njira yosadziwika bwino yodziwika bwino, makamaka kuti azidzipatula okha ku mitundu ina ya mafashoni.Mitundu yapamwamba yakale.Zogulitsa zawo nthawi zambiri sizikhala ndi logos konse, mogwirizana ndi malingaliro awo akugulitsa zinthu zapamwamba kwambiri, zokhazikika pamtengo wapamwamba m'malo molimbikitsa kudyedwa kowonekera.
Kutsika kwa ma logo kumagwirizananso ndi kukwera kwa malonda a e-commerce, zomwe zikutanthauza kuti ma brand akuyenera kukhala opanga momwe amapangira ndikutumiza zinthu zawo kwa ogula.Ma brand nthawi zambiri amaika ndalama zambiri popanga "unboxing" yapadera kwa makasitomala mwa kulongedza katundu wawo pamapepala apadera ndi mapaketi omwe amawonetsa zomwe mtunduwo umayimira.Makasitomala ambiri amagawana zomwe akumana nazo pa Instagram kapena YouTube, zomwe zikutanthauza kuti anthu ambiri aziwona.Mwachitsanzo, Everlane amasankha zopepuka, zochepa, zobwezerezedwanso mogwirizana ndi nzeru zake zokhazikika.Komano, Glossier amabwera mu phukusi losangalatsa komanso lachikazi lokhala ndi zomata ndi thumba la pinki.M'dziko latsopanoli, zinthu zonse, kuphatikizapo kulongedza katundu, mwadzidzidzi zinakhala zofanana ndi makampani omwe anapanga.
Vuto, ndithudi, ndiloti, monga momwe nkhani ya Glossier ikusonyezera, ndizovuta kuti ma brand adzilungamitse okha kuti ndi oyenerera mitundu yobisikayi ya chizindikiro.Pamapeto pake, lamulo lili ndi malire ake pankhani yoteteza mtundu wakampani.Mwina phunziro ndilakuti ngati mtundu uyenera kuchita bwino m'misika yamakono, uyenera kukhala wopanga nthawi iliyonse yamakasitomala, kuyambira pakupakira mpaka sitolo.
Dr. Elizabeth Segran ndi Wolemba Wamkulu ku Fast Company.Amakhala ku Cambridge Massachusetts.
Nthawi yotumiza: Aug-07-2023
